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Soldering Irons, Stations and Tips

Soldering irons, stations, tips, solder and desoldering braid for electronics, jewelry and general repairs. 802 products from $2.99 to $2,181.99. Zoro Select, Partners Brand, Weller and more.

802 products from $2.99

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Fixed iron or temperature-controlled station

A basic iron heats to whatever its wattage and tip allow, which is fine for quick wire repairs. A station adds a temperature setting, a stand and usually a sensor near the tip, so the heat stays steady while joints draw it away. That control protects circuit boards and small parts, and it matters more with lead-free solder, which needs higher temperatures than leaded. Wattage describes heating capacity, not temperature, so a controlled 60 W station can beat an uncontrolled 80 W iron. Small pencil irons suit fine electronics, while larger joints need more power.

Tips, solder and braid for the job at hand

Tips are the part you replace, and they are not universal. Check the tip series named in the listing, such as 900M, and match it to your handle or station. Chisel tips transfer heat to wide pads and wires, and fine conical tips reach small pins. Solder is chosen by alloy, diameter and flux core: thin wire suits surface-mount work, thicker wire suits cables. Desoldering braid lifts solder from joints. For cleaning, brass wire cleaners are gentler on the tip than a wet sponge, which cools it sharply.

Questions about Soldering Irons, Stations and Tips

Is a higher-wattage iron always better?
No. Wattage shows how fast an iron can recover heat, not how hot it gets. Extra power helps with large joints and lead-free solder, but a high-wattage iron without temperature control can lift pads and damage small components.
How do I know which replacement tips fit my iron?
Look for the tip series printed on the handle or in the manual and match it to the listing, since tips from different families differ in size and heater fit. In many stations the temperature sensor is built into the tip, so the right series also keeps readings accurate.
Why will my solder not stick to the joint?
Usually the surfaces are oxidized or the tip is dirty. Clean the joint, tin the tip with a thin coat of fresh solder and use enough flux. If the solder balls up, the joint is not hot enough, so use a larger tip rather than only raising the temperature.