Pruners, Shears and Garden Cutting Tools

Matching bypass or anvil blades to the wood

Bypass pruners work like scissors, with a sharp blade sliding past a hook, and give clean cuts on live, green stems that heal well. Anvil pruners press a blade onto a flat surface, which crushes soft stems but makes short work of dry or dead wood. Cutting capacity, usually given as a stem diameter, is a hard limit; bigger branches need loppers with long handles for leverage, or a pruning saw for anything thicker. A ratchet mechanism helps hands that tire.

Grip, blade finish and keeping the edge

Comfort decides whether you finish the job. Check handle size against your hand, a non-slip grip and a safety lock that closes with one thumb. Forged steel blades are generally sturdier than stamped ones, and a non-stick coating helps with sap. Sharpen the blade often with a small whetstone or file, keeping the original angle. Clean and oil the pivot after use, and wipe blades with rubbing alcohol between plants when cutting diseased wood, so infection does not spread.

Questions about Pruners, Shears and Garden Cutting Tools

Bypass or anvil pruners: which should I buy?

Bypass suits most garden work because it cuts living stems cleanly without crushing. Anvil pruners are better for dead, dry wood, where the blade can bite onto the flat surface. If you only buy one for general pruning, choose bypass.

When do I need loppers or a pruning saw instead of pruners?

Hand pruners are for stems up to their rated capacity, often under an inch. Loppers add leverage for thicker branches, and a pruning saw takes over beyond that. Forcing a pruner past its capacity bends the blade and loosens the pivot.

How should I clean pruners between plants?

Wipe the blades with rubbing alcohol or a household disinfectant after cutting diseased wood, then dry and add a drop of oil to the pivot. This stops diseases moving from plant to plant and prevents rust on carbon steel.